The mainstay of a rabbit’s diet should be large unlimited amounts of fresh hay with ad lib clean water available. Large amounts of grass, if available, provide good balanced nutrients for your rabbit. Rabbits, like humans are individuals and as such some may be unable to tolerate certain foods.

When introducing any new food, always do so slowly to avoid digestive upsets. We also recommend you introduce one new food at a time, so if it does upset the rabbit it can be removed from the diet. Only give a small amount and wait for 24 hours, if it isn’t well tolerated (i.e. soft stools are produced) withdraw it and try with something else after everything has settled back to normal. Allow 5-7 days before making any other additions.

The exact quantities given often depend upon the rabbit, so you may need to test your buns individual limits, as a rule an average 2.5kg rabbit should get 1.5-2.5 cups of fresh vegetables per day.

The following list is divided into sub-sections of vegetables, herbs, fruits and wild garden herbs/flowers that are deemed safe to feed rabbits, but this list is not a conclusive list and other fresh foods may also be suitable to feed to rabbits:

Vegetables: Artichoke leaves Asparagus Baby Sweetcorns (but not full size ones) Beetroot (care with leafy tops as high levels of oxalic acid) Broccoli (and its leaves, including purple sprouting varieties) Brussel Sprouts (leaves and sprouts) Cabbage (can sometimes cause digestive upsets) Carrots (and carrot tops) – the roots should be limited as they are high in sugars Cauliflower (and the leaves) Celeriac Celery (and its leaves) Chicory Courgette (and flowers) Cucumber Curly Kale Fennel Green beans Kohl rabi Parsnip Peas (including the leaves and pods) Peppers (red, green and yellow) Pumpkin Radish Tops Rocket Romaine lettuce (not Iceberg or light coloured leaf) Spinach (only occasional) Spring Greens Squash (e.g. Butternut) Swede Turnip (only occasional) Watercress Herbs (often powerful tastes so may take some getting used to): Basil Coriander Dill Mint (peppermint) Parsley Oregano Rosemary Sage Thyme

Fruits (should be fed in moderation, due to sugar content – up to 2 tablespoons worth per day): Apple Apricot Banana (high in potassium) Blackberries (and leaves – excellent astringent properties) Blueberries Cherries Grapes Kiwi Fruit Mango Melon Nectarines Oranges (not the peel) Papaya Peaches Pears Pineapple Plums Raspberries (and leaves – excellent astringent properties) Strawberries (and leaves) Tomatoes (not the leaves)

Wild Garden Herbs/Weeds/Flowers: Borage Calendula Camomile Chickweed (astringent) Clover (leaves and flowers) Coltsfoot Comfrey Dandelion (diuretic properties) Goosegrass (cleavers) but may stick to coat! Lavender Mallow Nettle Nasturtium (leaves and flowers) Shepherd’s purse Sow Thistle Plantain Yarrow

Petmillions.com supports The Rabbit Welfare Fund, to help support this charity click this link http://www.petmillions.com/signup.asp?r=14.

About the author:
The Rabbit Welfare Fund is Part of the RWA, and helps increase awareness about Animal Care & help rehome the many rabbits who have been illtreated

Rabbits do not handle hot weather well at all. To them, 80 degrees is hot. In order to prevent your rabbit from suffering in the heat, there are several things you can do.

1. Make sure it has fresh, cool water throughout the day.
2. Put water in plastic soda bottles or milk jugs and freeze them. Place one in the cage and the rabbit will lean against it to stay cool.
3. Make sure the rabbit’s hutch or cage is fully shaded.
4. Set up a mister system or a fan near your bunny’s cage.

Those things will generally keep your rabbit cool enough. However, be on the lookout for signs of heatstroke. These include heavy panting and wet mouths.

Another side affect of heat is in reguards to breeding rabbits. Bucks may go temporarily sterile, especially older bucks. Does may refuse to breed or loose litters.

Cold Weather

Rabbits usually handle cold weather a lot better than they do hot weather. So long as they are kept out of the wind and are kept dry, they usually do fine. However, if they are not used to cold weather, or are particularly sensetive to it, there are some things you can do to help.

1. Provide hay for them to eat and to dig into. The hay will create extra calories for them to burn, which makes more body heat. They will also nest in it, trapping body heat close to them.
2. Be sure they have fresh water at all times. If the water freezes, get the ice out and give the rabbit fresh water. Ice is not enough for a rabbit. Do not give them warm water, as that actually freezes down faster than lukewarm water does.
3. If you do bring your rabbit inside, do not put it in a warm room. Keep it in the coolest room you have, or when you take it back outside, the temperature change will be a drastic shock on its system.
4. Place tarps or blankets over the hutch or cage, leaving a corner open for fresh air. This helps retain the rabbit’s body heat in the cage, increasing the temperature a bit.

Sunlight

Rabbits cannot handle direct sunlight for very long at all. Just a few minutes in full sunlight can kill them. It causes them to overheat rapidly. Make sure your rabbit always has a shaded area that it can get to.

Rain

A wet rabbit is a rabbit that is more prone to getting ill or dying, especially if there are drafts or there is cold weather. Keep your rabbit out of the rain, and make sure it does not get wet. If it does get wet, dry it off right away. A little water on the surface of the coat will not harm the rabbit, so long as it has not reached the under layer of fur called the “undercoat.” If it has reached the undercoat, some serious drying will be needed. If that happens, also watch for signs of illness in the next few weeks.

Wind

Drafts are one of the most common weather-related killers of rabbits. Make sure your rabbit is out of drafts, or at least has a place where it can get out of drafts. Wind chill can be very deadly.

About the author:
Breeder of show rabbits for 11 years, member of the American Rabbit Breeders Association, and fan of all types of animals.

In fact, improper handling of your new pet can result in harm, so before you pick out your new pet rabbit, make sure you understand all the basics of rabbit animal behavior and care.

How to Handle Rabbits–Should you Pick Up Your Rabbit?

As creatures who walk on all four feet and whose bodies are low to the ground, rabbits tend to feel the most comfortable and safe while sitting or laying on the floor. Therefore, when picked up, rabbits may become nervous, panicked, or even downright terrified. When this happens, they may begin kicking out their hind-legs.

Why is this such a danger? Well, when your pet rabbit thrashes around he risks fracturing his back (remembers, rabbits bones, including spinal cords, are very fragile). If you pick up a rabbit and he starts to get nervous, put him down immediately and carefully, and do not try to physically restrain him.

Above all, never pick up a bunny rabbit by its ears. If you do pick up your rabbit, it should be done by carefully lifting from the scruff of the neck, then supporting the rest of the body with your other hand.

How to Pet a Rabbit

Since rabbits do not like to be picked up as much as other pet animals, you may not be able to pick up your bunny and pet him in your lap as you may want to. Respect your pet bunnies wish to stay closer to the ground. Instead of lifting him up, let him sit beside you, then pet him gently.

If your rabbit seems nervous, use one hand to gently cover his eyes, then stroke his back soothingly and calmly. This will help ease him back to a peaceful state.

Also, it is important to supervise your children while they are learning to pet their rabbits. Make sure they do not use too much pressure or try to pick up the animals, for the reasons described above. Set a good example by showing them how to treat the rabbit, then ask them to follow your lead.

How Rabbits Interact with Humans

Just because rabbits do not like to be held dont be fooled! They really are loving and sociable creatures, and they need (and want) your attention. In fact, one of the best reasons to keep your pet bunny housed inside your home is that he will feel like he is becoming a part of the family. Being around humans gives rabbits the idea that they are part of a group; they dislike being lonely and enjoy companionship.

As rabbits tend to be high-strung creatures, settling in with and getting to know a familiar and loving group of humans can really set their minds at ease and make them healthier and happier.

If you follow this advice, you will probably find that you will develop a close and satisfying relationship with your pet bunny. He will grow to trust you and show you various sides of his personality. He may very likely exhibit a sense of humor and compassionate feelings toward you … which as all animal lover’s know is a wonderful reward!

by Andrea Austin, http://www.rabbits-n-bunnies.com

About the author: We hope you enjoyed this article. If you would like more information on pet rabbit care, click on this link to get your FREE Rabbit Care Guide: Rabbit Care Guide

Having a bunny break its leg can be a very traumatic experience for both the bunny and for you. We raise holland lops, and the tort color often does well on the show table. We have had several colored rabbits with big wins but wanted to add tort to our herd. We purchased a tort doe over the internet, and had her delivered at a show we were attending. That was the last time we agreed to buy a rabbit without first seeing it. The doe was very skittish. The day after picking up the rabbit, our oldest daughter took the doe from her cage, the doe freaked out and jumped from her arms, unto our carpeted floor.

My daughter called me over and said I think there’s something wrong with the rabbit. Her left hind leg was dangling as if she had no control over it. At first I thought she may have dislocated her hip, but upon feeling that area found no dislocation. My next thought was a broken leg. I felt her leg looking for a break as there was no visible sign of a break. Again I found nothing. I decided to check again for a dislocation, and that’s when I found a break on her femur, near the hip.

I began my search for a veterinarian that could possibly reset the leg. We finally found a vet about an hour away that would be able to do it. The cost would be from $500 – $1500 to set the leg, depending on the x-rays they would need to take, and if surgery would be necessary. The cost was out of the question, and we decided to look for answers elsewhere.

We received many suggestions, including putting the rabbit down, to trying to reset the leg myself. Since neither of seemed to be options that we wanted to take. We decided to treat the bunny ourselves without resetting the leg. This was a difficult choice as this beautiful doe would no longer be showable, but we would be able to use her as pet, or if all went well a brood doe.

The biggest concern in treating a broken leg is mobility. It is important to stabilize the leg as much as possible and keep the bunny from moving the leg. We decided she would have to stay in a carrying cage for the 6-8 weeks it would take for her leg to heal. We considered putting a towel next to her to further reduce her ability to move within the carrying cage, but decided against it for sanitary reasons.

Being immobilized for such a long period of time also gave us other health concerns. We constantly monitored her food, water and hay intake. We also checked to make sure there were ample droppings in the wood shavings.

We were prepared to give her pain medications in the beginning. However, she never showed any visible signs that she was in pain. Of course everyone wanted to hold and comfort her while she spent the 7 ½ weeks in the carrying cage, but she was simply off limits. Her leg needed to heal and the more she was moved around the longer it would have taken for the leg to heal.

Finally we took her out, and moved her into a regular sized cage after 7 ½ weeks. Surprisingly, she was in fairly good flesh condition. She was getting around well on the healed leg, despite the fact that the leg didn’t heal completely straight. It turns out slightly away from her body, as though it is twisted.

We have bred her to one of our bucks. She needed a little assistance in lifting for buck during mating, but did real well with it. Soon she’ll be having her first litter. Yes, the broken leg eliminated her chances of being shown. But it didn’t eliminate her value to our rabbitry.

Toys keep your rabbit from being bored, and they also keep its mind sharp. Toys that make your rabbit think are the best. Some parrot toys are exellent because they are designed to keep a parrot thinking, which keeps it from being bored.

Toys keep a rabbit active, which in turn keeps it in good physical condition. This promotes health and vigor which can lead to a longer lifespan foryour bunny.

If you use toys to play with your bunny, your bunny will associate fun with you. This will cause it to bond more closely with you. Try rolling a ball toward it and watch how it will curiously approach the ball.

When choosing a toy, make sure that there are no chemically treated pieces that could harm your bunny. Avoid painted toys as they may be toxic. Dye is okay so long as it is natural dye such a food colouring. Anything safe for parrots is usually safe for rabbits. Rabbits love to chew, so blocks of wood are great.
String a bell to the top of the cage, and your bunny may soon be reaching up to ring it with its nose. Experiment and see what your rabbit likes. Every rabbit, like every human, has its own preferences.

Rabbits also love to play games without toys. I have had rabbits who learned how to play tag. I would get down on my hands and knees and crawl after them. They would run, and when I tagged them, they knew they were “it.” They would then come chasing after me until they tagged me. Rabbits are also good at hide-and-seek. They love to hide and be found. Just make sure to keep track of where your rabbit is so that it does not hide too well and get lost!

About the author:
Breeder and exhibitor of show rabbits for 11 years, member of the American Rabbit Breeders Association, and fan of all animals.

Often people purchase rabbits from a breeder. Many people prefer breeders under suspicion that some pet stores sell cross bred rabbits. Such a breeder who has a litter of young rabbits available for sale can be found in the newspaper classified ads listed under “Pets” or “Livestock.” Some can be found through rabbit breeders’ club publications or through rabbit-related magazines, which often include a breeder listing. With the advent of the Internet, many breeders advertise their stock online.

Finding a local rabbit breeder is generally preferred to shipping rabbits for long distances, as it can be stressful for the animal. Many pet shops nearly always carry smaller breeds of rabbit such as the Netherland dwarf, the Holland lop, and the Mini-Rex. These breeds, although smaller than ‘normal’ rabbits, still live long and healthy lives. A point to note is that often smaller breeds of rabbits are prone to tooth problems such as malocclusion.

Rabbit rescue organizations or a local humane society are increasingly common places to find adult rabbits, who may already be spayed or neutered and docile from handling. Though most rescued rabbits are healthy, some may require special care for health conditions or behavioral problems resulting from prior abuse.

Training and Play

Pet rabbits can be trained to urinate and defecate in a litter box or on a newspaper in a specific corner of a room. The litter box may also be placed inside the rabbit’s cage or the rabbit can be trained to treat the cage itself as the litter box. Litter training becomes much easier once a rabbit is spayed or neutered.

Rabbits cannot learn voice commands like a dog, but can recognize different patterns of the voice. For instance, If a rabbit is disobeying, for example biting, simply make a high pitched noise, or an extremely bass noise and the message will be conveyed. Rabbits can be taught their names, although they recognize the pattern of the noises more then the words. Rabbits are intelligent, and enjoy games and toys.

It is possible to permit a rabbit to run loose in the home if rooms have been rabbit-proofed (i.e. dangerous chewable items such as electric cords are removed from the pet’s reach).
Rabbits have a tendency to chew on items in their space, particularly wires, although they can be trained not to chew.

It is important that if a rabbit is allowed to roam in a house that it be impossible for the rabbit to chew or get into dangerous or valuable items. They do not possess the same comprehension as a dog or a cat, and often don’t understand if punished physically; rather they will become scared or confused if some kind of punishment is used, as they do not see the damage they have done. If all this is taken into consideration, rabbits make excellent house pets.

Companionship

Other rabbits

Unneutered rabbits frequently fight when paired with another rabbit of the same gender. Generally fighting is a result of sexual mounting, which is engaged in by rabbits of both sexes upon other rabbits of either sex; this behavior stresses the rabbit being mounted and can make it aggressive toward its cagemate. Unneutered rabbits of opposite sexes will breed rapidly, so a pet owner should not leave them together, even if they do not fight.

Because of these problems, it used to be preferred to keep rabbits caged individually. However, it is becoming common to spay and neuter pet rabbits allowing male and female rabbits to live together. Fighting can result even from pairing altered rabbits. Keeping rabbits in pairs can limit behavioral problems (such as general aggression, biting or withdrawal) which may arise if rabbits are kept single.

Pairs of bonded and desexed rabbits, usually one of each gender to a pair, can often be adopted from animal shelters. These have usually already had all their major expenses taken care of (desexing) and they will rarely fight or harass each other, taking the trouble out of bonding two separate rabbits.

Guinea pigs

Some books recommend keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together to meet their social needs. While some people have seen success with this technique, the current consensus is that rabbits should never be kept in the same cage with guinea pigs. A rabbit can easily harass or injure a guinea pig; this can lead to severe distress or even death for the guinea pig. It may be unintentional or due to being startled, since the rabbit is larger and stronger so can seriously injure a guinea pig. They also have differing nutritional requirements, so it is therefore preferable that rabbits and guinea pigs are fed separately.
Guinea pigs require additional Vitamin C in their diets that rabbits don’t. Lack of Vitamin C may lead to scurvy.

Additionally, guinea pigs typically show very little interest in social activities necessary for the rabbit’s well-being, such as grooming; this limits the intended benefit of housing the guinea pig and rabbit together in the first place.

Dogs and cats

It is generally recommended that dogs should never be left alone with rabbits as their predatory instincts (or overenthusiastic play) can lead to the dog attacking the rabbit spontaneously.
Cats, on the other hand, can become close and safe potential companions if properly introduced to the rabbit and they are of at least roughly equivalent size. In fact, when the cat is introduced in a home with a resident rabbit, the rabbit sometimes will act aggressively to establish his territory and the cat, which does not have such concerns, will typically cede the point to the resident.

About the author:
Hagar lagarto is a long time Pet lover with many articles and websites on the subject.You can get much more info at http://pet.freehostia.com

DECIDING WHAT BREED

Before you get started, you obviously have to decide what breed of rabbit you wish to raise or show. Each breed of rabbit is a wonderful breed, and each has its good and bad points. Before choosing a breed, make a list of what you can realistically have and what you need. If you don’t have much space, it might be best to get a smaller breed. If you want to use your rabbits for dual purpose showing and meat or fur, get a commercial breed such as New Zealand, Satin, Rex, or Californian. Ask yourself the following questions:

1. How much space do I have to keep rabbits?
2. Do I just want to show, or do I want to use rabbits for meat and/or fur as well?
3. How will I get rid of my culls (the rabbits that you can’t keep)? Will I sell them, give them away, use them for meat/fur?
4. How much of a challenge do I want? [Some breeds, such as marked breeds, are far more challenging than others].
5. Do I want a lot of competition or do I want a rarer breed?
6. Do I want a laid back breed or a more energetic breed?
7. Do I want a breed that produces a small amount of babies per litter or a large amount?
8. Do I have time to spend on a lot of grooming or extra care?
9. What do I like?
10. Anything else you can think of.

One you’ve answered those questions, start researching breeds.
Go to a local show, and ask breeders about their breed. Watch the judging of breeds that you are interested in. Make sure to ask a lot of questions from the breeders.

EQUIPMENT

Once you’ve picked a breed, get the equipment you will need for it. Get the right size cage, food dish, and water dish or bottle. If it is a wooled (long-haired) breed, you will need a brush. You will need nail clippers as well. Talk to breeders of your breed and ask what, if any, special equipment or care your breed needs.

PURCHASING

Once you’ve decided which breed to raise, the fun really starts. Now you get to find a bunny or two! Go to breeders of your chosen breed and ask them to show you what to look for in a good show rabbit of that breed. Purchase the American Rabbit Breeders Association (here on out referred to as the “ARBA”) Standard of Perfection which can be found at most shows, then study your breed’s standard. Also look at general faults and disqualifications from competition. I can’t emphasis enough how
important knowledge of your chosen breed is.

Once you have a good understanding of your chosen breed, look for a reputable breeder. Said breeder will be glad to answer all your questions, will not have a problem with you getting a judge or registrar (or even another breeder of the same breed) to evaluate the rabbit you wish to purchase, and will have healthy pedigreed rabbits. Make sure to get the best rabbits that you can afford. If you just want one or two rabbits to show, and don’t wish to breed, it is a good idea to purchase a rabbit that is 4 to 7 months old, with a win or two to its name. If you wish to breed, purchasing a compatible pair or trio is usually the best way to go. I usually recommend getting a show quality buck (4 to 7 months) and proven producing breeding doe (7 months to 1 year) if you’re getting a pair. For a trio, I recommend purchasing a show quality buck (4 to 7 months), a show quality doe (4 to 7 months), and a proven producing breeding quality doe (7 months to 1 year). That way you will have at least one rabbit to show until you have produced your own show bunnies.

Depending on the breed you have chosen, the price for show and breeding quality rabbits can be anywhere from $10 to $200. Usually a decent quality show rabbit that is good enough to win a few classes and maybe even a variety (colour) win will cost between $20 and $50.

If you can, get some of the food that the rabbit is used to from the breeder. That way you can transition it to the new food. Make sure that you get the pedigree for each rabbit when you purchase the rabbit. Many people have purchased a rabbit with the promise that the pedigree will be sent and never got the pedigree. Note: Rabbits do not have to be pedigreed to be shown, but they do have to be pedigreed to be registered or to become a grand champion. Rabbits do not have to be registered to be shown or to produce show quality offspring.

PREPARING FOR THE SHOW

When you get home, put the rabbit in its cage with some food and water, then leave it alone for the first day. The second day you can handle it some, the third more, and gradually work up to more and more time handling it until your rabbit is used to you and trusts you.

Rabbits need fresh, clean water all the time. The cage and dishes should be cleaned frequently. The amount of food given to your rabbits will depend on its breed, age, and size. Be sure to ask the original breeder about feeding.

Grooming is usually pretty easy. The nails should be kept trimmed, and occasional brushing may be required for short haired breeds (except Rex and Mini Rex, which can be groomed with a horse slick pumice block). Wooled breeds will need more frequent brushing. Loose hair on a short-haired rabbit (Rex and Mini Rex included) can be removed by dampening your hands with water until they are just sticky then running them through the coat to pick up loose hair and kill static. Loose hair can also
be removed using a horse slick pumice block.

Many breeders use feed supplements to help improve the condition of the rabbit’s flesh and coat. Some examples are Showbloom, Doc’s Rabbit Enhancer, Calf Manna, and black oil sunflower seeds. With Showbloom and Doc’s Rabbit Enhancer, follow the feeding instructions carefully. With calf manna and sunflower seeds, you may have to experiment a bit to see how much is right. I usually start with a small handful. Too much of a supplement can cause the opposite effect of what you want, making the rabbit fat, flabby, or put it into a moult (shedding the coat out). If you supplement, be sure to cut back slightly the amount of feed you provide. Also, when your rabbit gets into prime condition, cut back the supplements and the feed a little as the rabbit burns less energy while in prime.

ENTERING A SHOW

Your rabbits are in good condition, and you are ready to enter your first show. Contact the show secretary to get a catalog. When you get it, be sure to read the rule carefully, and make sure to watch the deadline for entries. Fill out the entry form completely. Ear number is the number and/or letter combination that is tattooed in your rabbit’s left ear. If there is no tattoo, you will need to get it tattooed. Some breeders will tattoo for you, and most registrars at shows will tattoo for a small fee. Breed is the type of rabbit, such as Netherland Dwarf or Rex. Variety is the colour of your rabbit. Be sure to check your Standard of Perfection for variety classes as some breeds (such as all lops, all angora, and Jersey Woolies) are shown by colour groups rather than by individual colour. Sex is the gender of your rabbit. A buck is a male, a doe is a female. Class is your rabbit’s age. Most breeds are shown as either a senior (6 months or over) or a junior (under 6 months). The large breeds are shown as a senior (8 months or over), intermediate (6 to 8 months), or a junior (under 6 months). Be sure to check your Standard of Perfection to see what classes are offered in your breed. Fur is where you can enter your rabbit in either the breed or commercial normal (if your breed has normal “Flyback” fur) fur class. Your rabbit has to be entered in a regular class to compete in fur, where it will be judged solely on the quality and condition of its fur.

Most shows are pre-entry, meaning you have to send in your entry before the show. A few are day of the show entry, where you arrive early and enter at the show. If it is a pre-entry, be sure to send the entry off before the deadline is past or your entry will probably be rejected.

SHOWING

Get to the show a little early to allow yourself time to set up, check in, and see what table your breed is being judged at. After setting up and checking tables, groom your rabbits. Then you can wander around the show room to talk to breeders, look at the other rabbits, etc. Be careful to check your breed’s table often to see when your rabbit is up to be shown. Most of the time someone will announce what class is being called up, but it cannot always be heard. Classes will not be rejudged if you miss them, so get your rabbits up to the table on time!

When your rabbit’s class is called, take your rabbit to the table. You will see several small cages called holding coops. In front of these will be comment cards with the rabbits’ information. Find the card that has your rabbit’s ear tattoo number on it and place your rabbit in the corresponding holding coop. Then, to make it easier for other exhibitors, flip the card over.

Don’t talk while the judge is giving comments on any rabbit because even if it isn’t your rabbit, the rabbit’s owner may want to hear the comments. Pay close attention to the judge’s comments as they will help you learn. When the table held puts the comment card on top of your rabbit’s holding coop, that means it is done being shown. Take it back to your set up. If it won Best of Variety (BOV), Best Opposite of Variety (BOSV), Best of Group (BOG), or Best Opposite of Group (BOSG) it will need to
come back later to compete for Best of Breed (BOB) and Best Opposite of Breed (BOSB). Be sure to watch for when they call up the winners to compete for BOB and BOSB as you don’t want to miss your chance at winning!

If your rabbit wins Best of Breed, it will later compete for Best in Show (BIS) and Reserve in Show (RIS). The table for Best In Show judging will be announced after a winner in each breed is chosen. If you are competing for BIS and RIS, take your rabbit to the BIS table when it is time. Place it in any of the holding coops at that table, then move out of the judging area. Then wait for the judge(s) to judge the rabbits and announce the winners.

If you win anything, be sure to find the awards table to see if you get any awards. Bring your comment card with you, and show it to the awards secretary.

Finally, the show is over. Clean up all your mess, pack up your equipment, and load up your rabbit(s). You’ve survived your first show, and before you know it you will have a bad case of rabbit show fever!

OTHER

It is highly recommended that you join the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). This will provide you with invalluable information, as well as allow you to register and grand champion your rabbits. Go to the ARBA website at http://www.arba.net for a membership form, or you can pick them up at most shows (check commercial booths or ask registrars for one).

About the author:
Breeder and exhibitor of show rabbits for 11 years, member of the American Rabbit Breeders Association, and fan of all animals.

Number 1: No barking, hissing or squawking House rabbits are very quiet animals to share your life with. Aside from a gentle clicking of the teeth when happy or a low grunt when irritated, rabbits are virtually noiseless pets. There are a variety of bunny body language signals that house rabbits use to let you know how they are doing and even what they want. For example, if your rabbit bows her/his head down and lies low to the ground, chances are good your bunny is presenting and wants to be stroked.

Number 2: Bunnies can be very affectionate and personable When treated with respect and care, most house rabbits show their love in clear ways. A happy bunny will give you soft licks akin to kisses. They will also indicate if they are angry or feel threatened. Of course, each house rabbit’s personality is different. Be sure to research breed temperament tendencies and if possible, spend time with the rabbit before adoption. Once home, a close bond can be encouraged between family members and the bunny by providing plenty of social time. Rabbits need at least 2-3 hours a day out of their cages or pens and they tend to like to be around others, especially during those peak activity times of day.

Number 3: Rabbits are Earth-friendly pets Whether it’s sharing a salad with your bunny or using her/his waste and litter to enrich your compost heap, house rabbits are a great complement to a sustainable lifestyle. Rabbits are vegetarians and can easily share the abundance of your garden or purchased produce.
There are many diet choices you can make for your bunny rabbit. However, it is vital that you feed him/her mainly fresh hays and green vegetables with quality pellets as well. Recycling with your rabbit can happen in countless ways: Providing your bunny with cardboard tubes as toys, using clean old towels for his/her cage or pen, or even purchasing litter made from recycled paper are just a few everyday examples.

Number 4: Compatible companions with your other pets Contrary to what you might think, with careful training and gradual introductions, your house rabbit can coexist peacefully with other pets. Careful consideration needs to be taken when bringing a bunny into a home already inhabited by other pets.
For example, if your dog is a hunting breed–e.g. beagle–and has been trained to emphasize those breed tendencies, perhaps a house rabbit is not an ideal match. However, in most cases, other pets can be trained to treat your bunny with respect and they may even become buddies! Taking a slow, gradual and consistent approach when introducing other pets will help all of the animals in your family understand how to live harmoniously together.

Number 5: Bunnies are just plain fun! One reason why house rabbits are so unique is how playful and personable they can be. Especially during their most active hours–early morning and early evening–don’t be surprised to find a happy bunny racing and leaping about your home providing just about the best entertainment a pet can offer! Yes, providing proper care can be a lot of work and deciding to adopt a house rabbit in the first place should never be taken lightly. But one ticklish lick from a nose-twitching lagomorph (aka rabbit) and we think you’ll agree that house rabbits may just be the best pet you’ve ever shared your life with! For more in-depth information about house rabbits, visit http://www.rabbitinfocenter.com

About the author:
Zach and Amy Phillips-Gary are a son-mother team who share what we’ve learned about house rabbits with others through our website. Visit us at http://www.rabbitinfocenter.com to learn more.

Let’s look at the early life of a rabbit to understand what is going on. A rabbit is conceived and born just 31 days later. It is born blind, deaf, and hairless. In warm weather, the baby rabbit will stay in the nest for just two weeks; three weeks in cold weather. Then it will nurse for a few more weeks.

Although some breeders remove the mother when the babies are 5 weeks old, I prefer to see them nurse until at least 7 weeks. If left together, a mother rabbit will often nurse the babies for much longer.

Although the baby will probably begin nibbling on solid food at the age of 3 weeks, he is still nursing. His digestive system must learn gradually how to deal with solid food. The mother’s support helps him deal with all of the changes he has had to make in his short life.

Weaning is a critical time in a rabbit’s life. A number of baby rabbits will develop weaning enteritis and die. Some do not develop the intestinal flora required to eat solid food without the addition of the mother’s milk and cecotrophes.

Separation from mother is another stress in the baby’s life. I remove mother as one step and then separate babies by pairs as a second step. Rabbits are moved to their own cages as a third step to ease the stresses in their lives.

During this calendar year alone, I estimate that I will have raised 300 rabbits by December 31. A number of my two-month old rabbits will die suddenly. I just had two 5-week olds die last week. Although it is always sad to me when I lose a rabbit, it would have been so much worse had the baby been my child’s pet.

When baby rabbits are sold below the age of 8 weeks, all of the stresses of being weaned, being separated from mother, being separated from the litter, plus getting use to a new home, new people, new routines, and new food and water are all affecting this tiny creature that did not even exist several weeks before.
Although some do make it through, many – far too many – die.

I don’t even sell 8-week olds anymore. The last one I sold at that age was returned to me three days later, very sick. The rest of his litter, which was with me, was still healthy. The new owner realized that, in her excitement, she had stressed him too much.

Eight weeks in the absolute youngest age at which anyone should even consider getting a new pet rabbit. I recommend three to four months old (and older). You can read about other advantages of adopting older bunnies at Precious Pet Rabbits http://www.pet-rabbit-care-information.com/.

About the author:
Laurie Stroupe lives in Ararat, Virginia, with her husband, four children, and 150 show rabbits. Laurie is an ARBA member who provides pet rabbit care information on her Precious Pet Rabbits website http://www.pet-rabbit-care-information.com/.

We hope that the following information and account of our experience with this serious house rabbit illness will help you collect your house rabbit’s clues and track down culprits that endanger her/his health. For other house rabbit hints, facts, and stories, please visit http://www.rabbitinfocenter.com And remember, it is essential that bunny detectives work with their rabbit-knowledgeable veterinarians.

The Case of Buns’ Bout with GI Stasis

Sunday 3pm: Weekly rabbit pen cleaning. Performed usual tasks: cleaned up multiple waste droppings, sprayed floor of pen with vinegar. Opened new bag of timothy hay, re-filled hay basket.

Monday 1:11 pm: Note that Buns has not eaten usual amount of hay and find fewer waste droppings than usual in pen. Decide to record these clues and call our veterinarian who is experienced with rabbit care.

Tuesday 10:00 am: Observe very few waste droppings in pen. Hay is still uneaten. We are officially worried.

Tuesday 3:15 pm: Visit with rabbit specialist vet. Diagnosis is GI Stasis (aka ileus). Rabbit is given a shot to help stimulate digestive system and clear out gas. Improvement should be noticed by morning.

Wednesday 8:00 am: No improvement noticed. Noticing loud crunching of teeth. Really really worried now. We call make another vet appointment.

Wednesday 4:30 pm: Second visit with vet. Force feeding with Oxbow Hay Company’s Critical Care formula is prescribed as well as another shot. Medicine in hand, we head home.

Thursday 7:45 am: House rabbit Buns is starting to show improvement. He actually likes the Critical Care formula fed to him in a syringe and other medicine. Rabbit is even eating some pellets again as well as timothy hay cube treats.

Friday and Saturday: Repeat force feeding and pills as prescribed by vet. Steady improvement of rabbit noted.

Sunday 6:20 pm: Buns observed eating small amounts of timothy hay. More waste droppings in pen are also observed. We continue another day of “force feeding” though he loves the Critical Care formula. This house rabbit appears to be back on track. Case closed.

We still don’t completely understand what caused Bun’s case of GI Stasis. With the help of our vet, we have some theories including the possibility of a “bad” batch of hay (Buns is known to be a picky eater). It could also have been the vinegar that was used to clean his pen. However, what we do know is that once a rabbit stops ingesting those vital grass hays, it doesn’t take long for GI Stasis to take hold and, if left untreated, can quickly kill a bunny.

More Information About GI Stasis:

POSSIBLE CAUSES OF GI STASIS Stress Infections Dental Problems Urinary Tract Disorder: Gas Dehydration Unbalanced Diet

SYMPTOMS OF GI STASIS Waste Dropping Abnormalities Loud tummy growling Lethargic No appetite. Crunching of teeth

*To learn more about a rabbit’s digestive system and dietary needs please visit http://www.rabbitinfocenter.com/dietandnutrition.htm

About the author:
Amy & Zach are a mother-son team who supply house rabbit facts, hints & humor for their website http://www.rabbitinfocenter.com